Creating a sustainability roadmap for the apparel industry: interview with Michael Sadowski
From energy to water to raw materials, manufacturing the world’s clothing requires considerable resources. Now the industry is moving toward making apparel production more efficient and sustainable—and Michael Sadowski has been chronicling its progress.
David Maloney has been a journalist for more than 35 years and is currently the group editorial director for DC Velocity and Supply Chain Quarterly magazines. In this role, he is responsible for the editorial content of both brands of Agile Business Media. Dave joined DC Velocity in April of 2004. Prior to that, he was a senior editor for Modern Materials Handling magazine. Dave also has extensive experience as a broadcast journalist. Before writing for supply chain publications, he was a journalist, television producer and director in Pittsburgh. Dave combines a background of reporting on logistics with his video production experience to bring new opportunities to DC Velocity readers, including web videos highlighting top distribution and logistics facilities, webcasts and other cross-media projects. He continues to live and work in the Pittsburgh area.
Most of the apparel sold in North America is manufactured in Asia, meaning the finished goods travel long distances to reach end markets, with all the associated greenhouse gas emissions. On top of that, apparel manufacturing itself requires a significant amount of energy, water, and raw materials like cotton. Overall, the production of apparel is responsible for about 2% of the world’s total greenhouse gas emissions, according to a report titled
Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zeroby the Apparel Impact Institute. Founded in 2017, the Apparel Impact Institute is an organization dedicated to identifying, funding, and then scaling solutions aimed at reducing the carbon emissions and other environmental impacts of the apparel and textile industries.
The author of this annual study is researcher and consultant Michael Sadowski. He wrote the first report in 2021 as well as the latest edition, which was released earlier this year. Sadowski, who is also executive director of the environmental nonprofit
The Circulate Initiative, recently joined DC Velocity Group Editorial Director David Maloney on an episode of the “Logistics Matters” podcast to discuss the key findings of the research, what companies are doing to reduce emissions, and the progress they’ve made since the first report was issued.
A: While companies in the apparel industry can set their own sustainability targets, we realized there was a need to give them a blueprint for actually reducing emissions. And so, we produced the first report back in 2021, where we laid out the emissions from the sector, based on the best estimates [we could make using] data from various sources. It gives companies and the sector a blueprint for what we collectively need to do to drive toward the ambitious reduction [target] of staying within a 1.5 degrees Celsius pathway. That was the first report, and then we committed to refresh the analysis on an annual basis. The second report was published last year, and the third report came out in May of this year.
Q: What were some of the key findings of your research?
A: We found that about half of the emissions in the sector come from Tier Two, which is essentially textile production. That includes the knitting, weaving, dyeing, and finishing of fabric, which together account for over half of the total emissions. That was a really important finding, and it allows us to focus our attention on the interventions that can drive those emissions down.
Raw material production accounts for another quarter of emissions. That includes cotton farming, extracting gas and oil from the ground to make synthetics, and things like that. So we now have a really keen understanding of the source of our industry’s emissions.
Q: Your report mentions that the apparel industry is responsible for about 2% of global emissions. Is that an accurate statistic?
A: That’s our best estimate of the total emissions [generated by] the apparel sector. Some other reports on the industry have apparel at up to 8% of global emissions. And there is a commonly misquoted number in the media that it’s 10%. From my perspective, I think the best estimate is somewhere under 2%.
We know that globally, humankind needs to reduce emissions by roughly half by 2030 and reach net zero by 2050 to hit international goals. [Reaching that target will require the involvement of] every facet of the global economy and every aspect of the apparel sector—transportation, material production, manufacturing, cotton farming. Through our work and that of others, I think the apparel sector understands what has to happen. We have highlighted examples of how companies are taking action to reduce emissions in the roadmap reports.
Q: What are some of those actions the industry can take to reduce emissions?
A: I think one of the positive developments since we wrote the first report is that we’re seeing companies really focus on the most impactful areas. We see companies diving deep on thermal energy, for example. With respect to Tier Two, we [focus] a lot of attention on things like ocean freight versus air. There’s a rule of thumb I’ve heard that indicates air freight is about 10 times the cost [of ocean] and also produces 10 times more greenhouse gas emissions.
There is money available to invest in sustainability efforts. It’s really exciting to see the funding that’s coming through for AI [artificial intelligence] and to see that individual companies, such as H&M and Lululemon, are investing in real solutions in their supply chains. I think a lot of concrete actions are being taken.
And yet we know that reducing emissions by half on an absolute basis by 2030 is a monumental undertaking. So I don’t want to be overly optimistic, because I think we have a lot of work to do. But I do think we’ve got some amazing progress happening.
Q: You mentioned several companies that are starting to address their emissions. Is that a result of their being more aware of the emissions they generate? Have you seen progress made since the first report came out in 2021?
A: Yes. When we published the first roadmap back in 2021, our statistics showed that only about 12 companies had met the criteria [for setting] science-based targets. In 2024, the number of apparel, textile, and footwear companies that have set targets or have commitments to set targets is close to 500. It’s an enormous increase. I think they see the urgency more than other sectors do.
We have companies that have been working at sustainability for quite a long time. I think the apparel sector has developed a keen understanding of the impacts of climate change. You can see the impacts of flooding, drought, heat, and other things happening in places like Bangladesh and Pakistan and India. If you’re a brand or a manufacturer and you have operations and supply chains in these places, I think you understand what the future will look like if we don’t significantly reduce emissions.
Q: There are different categories of emission levels, depending on the role within the supply chain. Scope 1 are “direct” emissions under the reporting company’s control. For apparel, this might be the production of raw materials or the manufacturing of the finished product. Scope 2 covers “indirect” emissions from purchased energy, such as electricity used in these processes. Scope 3 emissions are harder to track, as they include emissions from supply chain partners both upstream and downstream.
Now companies are finding there are legislative efforts around the world that could soon require them to track and report on all these emissions, including emissions produced by their partners’ supply chains. Does this mean that companies now need to be more aware of not only what greenhouse gas emissions they produce, but also what their partners produce?
A: That’s right. Just to put this into context, if you’re a brand like an Adidas or a Gap, you still have to consider the Scope 3 emissions. In particular, there are the so-called “purchased goods and services,” which refers to all of the embedded emissions in your products, from farming cotton to knitting yarn to making fabric. Those “purchased goods and services” generally account for well above 80% of the total emissions associated with a product. It’s by far the most significant portion of your emissions.
Leading companies have begun measuring and taking action on Scope 3 emissions because of regulatory developments in Europe and, to some extent now, in California. I do think this is just a further tailwind for the work that the industry is doing.
I also think it will definitely ratchet up the quality requirements of Scope 3 data, which is not yet where we’d all like it to be. Companies are working to improve that data, but I think the regulatory push will make the quality side increasingly important.
Q: Overall, do you think the work being done by the Apparel Impact Institute will help reduce greenhouse gas emissions within the industry?
A: When we started this back in 2020, we were at a place where companies were setting targets and knew their intended destination, but what they needed was a blueprint for how to get there. And so, the roadmap [provided] this blueprint and identified six key things that the sector needed to do—from using more sustainable materials to deploying renewable electricity in the supply chain.
Decarbonizing any sector, whether it’s transportation, chemicals, or automotive, requires investment. The Apparel Impact Institute is bringing collective investment, which is so critical. I’m really optimistic about what they’re doing. They have taken a data-driven, evidence-based approach, so they know where the emissions are and they know what the needed interventions are. And they’ve got the industry behind them in doing that.
The Boston-based enterprise software vendor Board has acquired the California company Prevedere, a provider of predictive planning technology, saying the move will integrate internal performance metrics with external economic intelligence.
According to Board, the combined technologies will integrate millions of external data points—ranging from macroeconomic indicators to AI-driven predictive models—to help companies build predictive models for critical planning needs, cutting costs by reducing inventory excess and optimizing logistics in response to global trade dynamics.
That is particularly valuable in today’s rapidly changing markets, where companies face evolving customer preferences and economic shifts, the company said. “Our customers spend significant time analyzing internal data but often lack visibility into how external factors might impact their planning,” Jeff Casale, CEO of Board, said in a release. “By integrating Prevedere, we eliminate those blind spots, equipping executives with a complete view of their operating environment. This empowers them to respond dynamically to market changes and make informed decisions that drive competitive advantage.”
Material handling automation provider Vecna Robotics today named Karl Iagnemma as its new CEO and announced $14.5 million in additional funding from existing investors, the Waltham, Massachusetts firm said.
The fresh funding is earmarked to accelerate technology and product enhancements to address the automation needs of operators in automotive, general manufacturing, and high-volume warehousing.
Iagnemma comes to the company after roles as an MIT researcher and inventor, and with leadership titles including co-founder and CEO of autonomous vehicle technology company nuTonomy. The tier 1 supplier Aptiv acquired Aptiv in 2017 for $450 million, and named Iagnemma as founding CEO of Motional, its $4 billion robotaxi joint venture with automaker Hyundai Motor Group.
“Automation in logistics today is similar to the current state of robotaxis, in that there is a massive market opportunity but little market penetration,” Iagnemma said in a release. “I join Vecna Robotics at an inflection point in the material handling market, where operators are poised to adopt automation at scale. Vecna is uniquely positioned to shape the market with state-of-the-art technology and products that are easy to purchase, deploy, and operate reliably across many different workflows.”
Third-party logistics (3PL) providers’ share of large real estate leases across the U.S. rose significantly through the third quarter of 2024 compared to the same time last year, as more retailers and wholesalers have been outsourcing their warehouse and distribution operations to 3PLs, according to a report from real estate firm CBRE.
Specifically, 3PLs’ share of bulk industrial leasing activity—covering leases of 100,000 square feet or more—rose to 34.1% through Q3 of this year from 30.6% through Q3 last year. By raw numbers, 3PLs have accounted for 498 bulk leases so far this year, up by 9% from the 457 at this time last year.
By category, 3PLs’ share of 34.1% ranked above other occupier types such as: general retail and wholesale (26.6), food and beverage (9.0), automobiles, tires, and parts (7.9), manufacturing (6.2), building materials and construction (5.6), e-commerce only (5.6), medical (2.7), and undisclosed (2.3).
On a quarterly basis, bulk leasing by 3PLs has steadily increased this year, reversing the steadily decreasing trend of 2023. CBRE pointed to three main reasons for that resurgence:
Import Flexibility. Labor disruptions, extreme weather patterns, and geopolitical uncertainty have led many companies to diversify their import locations. Using 3PLs allows for more inventory flexibility, a key component to retailer success in times of uncertainty.
Capital Allocation/Preservation. Warehousing and distribution of goods is expensive, draining capital resources for transportation costs, rent, or labor. But outsourcing to 3PLs provides companies with more flexibility to increase or decrease their inventories without any risk of signing their own lease commitments. And using a 3PL also allows companies to switch supply chain costs from capital to operational expenses.
Focus on Core Competency. Outsourcing their logistics operations to 3PLs allows companies to focus on core business competencies that drive revenue, such as product development, sales, and customer service.
Looking into the future, these same trends will continue to drive 3PL warehouse demand, CBRE said. Economic, geopolitical and supply chain uncertainty will remain prevalent in the coming quarters but will not diminish the need to effectively manage inventory levels.
In a push to automate manufacturing processes, businesses around the world have turned to robots—the latest figures from the Germany-based International Federation of Robotics (IFR) indicate that there are now 4,281,585 robot units operating in factories worldwide, a 10% jump over the previous year. And the pace of robotic adoption isn’t slowing: Annual installations in 2023 exceeded half a million units for the third consecutive year, the IFR said in its “World Robotics 2024 Report.”
As for where those robotic adoptions took place, the IFR says 70% of all newly deployed robots in 2023 were installed in Asia (with China alone accounting for over half of all global installations), 17% in Europe, and 10% in the Americas. Here’s a look at the numbers for several countries profiled in the report (along with the percentage change from 2022).
Sean Webb’s background is in finance, not package engineering, but he sees that as a plus—particularly when it comes to explaining the financial benefits of automated packaging to clients. Webb is currently vice president of national accounts at Sparck Technologies, a company that manufactures automated solutions that produce right-sized packaging, where he is responsible for the sales and operational teams. Prior to joining Sparck, he worked in the financial sector for PEAK6, E*Trade, and ATD, including experience as an equity trader.
Webb holds a bachelor’s degree from Michigan State and an MBA in finance from Western Michigan University.
Q: How would you describe the current state of the packaging industry?
A: The packaging and e-commerce industries are rapidly evolving, driven by shifting consumer preferences, technological advancements, and a heightened focus on sustainability. The packaging sector is increasingly prioritizing eco-friendly materials to reduce waste, while integrating smart technologies and customizable solutions to enhance brand engagement.
The e-commerce industry continues to expand, fueled by the convenience of online shopping and accelerated by the pandemic. Advances in artificial intelligence and augmented reality are enhancing the online shopping experience, while consumer expectations for fast delivery and seamless transactions are reshaping logistics and operations.
In addition, with the growth in environmental and sustainability regulatory initiatives—like Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) laws and a New Jersey bill that would require retailers to use right-sized shipping boxes—right-sized packaging is playing a crucial role in reducing packaging waste and box volume.
Q: You came from the financial and equity markets. How has that been an advantage in your work as an executive at Sparck?
A: My background has allowed me to effectively communicate the incredible ROI [return on investment] and value that right-size automated packaging provides in a way that financial teams understand. Investment in this technology provides significant labor, transportation, and material savings that typically deliver a positive ROI in six to 18 months.
Q: What are the advantages to using automated right-sized packaging equipment?
A: By automating the packaging process to create right-sized boxes, facilities can boost productivity by streamlining operations and reducing manual handling. This leads to greater operational efficiency as automated systems handle tasks with precision and speed, minimizing downtime.
The use of right-sized packaging also results in substantial labor savings, as less labor is required for packaging tasks. In addition, these systems support scalability, allowing facilities to easily adapt to increased order volumes and evolving needs without compromising performance.
Q: How can automation help ease the labor problems associated with time-consuming pack-out operations?
A: Not only has the cost of labor increased dramatically, but finding a consistent labor force to keep up with the constant fluctuations around peak seasons is very challenging. Typically, one manual laborer can pack at a rate of 20 to 35 packages per hour. Our CVP automated packaging solution can pack up to 1,100 orders per hour utilizing a fully integrated system. This system not only creates a right-sized box, but also accurately weighs it, captures its dimensions, and adds the necessary carrier information.
Q: Beyond material savings, are there other advantages for transportation and warehouse functions in using right-sized packaging?
A: Yes. By creating smaller boxes, right-sizing enables more parcels to fit on a truck, leading to significant shipping and transportation savings. This also results in reduced CO2 emissions, as fewer truckloads are required. In addition, parcels with right-sized packaging are less prone to damage, and automation helps minimize errors.
In a warehouse setting, smaller packages are easier to convey and sort. Using a fully integrated system that combines multiple functions into a smaller footprint can also lead to operational space savings.
Q: Can you share any details on the typical ROI and the savings associated with packaging automation?
A: Three-dimensional right-sized packaging automation boosts productivity significantly, leading to increased overall revenue. Labor savings average 88%, and transportation savings accrue with each right-sized box. In addition, material savings from less wasteful use of corrugated packaging enhance the return on investment for companies. Together, these typically deliver returns in under 18 months, with some projects achieving ROI in as little as six months. These savings can total millions of dollars for businesses.
Q: How can facility managers convince corporate executives that automated packaging technology is a good investment for their operation?
A: We like to take a data-driven approach and utilize the actual data from the customer to understand the right fit. Using those results, we utilize our ROI tool to accurately project the savings, ROI, IRR (internal rate of return), and NPV (net present value) that facility managers can then use to [elicit] the support needed to make a good investment for their operation.
Q: Could you talk a little about the enhancements you’ve recently made to your automated solutions?
A: Sparck has introduced a number of enhancements to its packaging solutions, including fluting corrugate that supports packages of various weights and sizes, allowing the production of ultra-slim boxes with a minimum height of 28mm (1.1 inches). This innovation revolutionizes e-commerce packaging by enabling smaller parcels to fit through most European mailboxes, optimizing space in transit and increasing throughput rates for automated orders.
In addition, Sparck’s new real-time data monitoring tools provide detailed machine performance insights through various software solutions, allowing businesses to manage and optimize their packaging operations. These developments offer significant delivery performance improvements and cost savings globally.